Monte Viso ascent: 4 days of rock mountaineering

Setting off from the Alpetto mountain hut, we climb up to join the ridge of Punta Dante, which we follow to the summit (3,166 m), taking care on the occasionally narrow sections and the varied terrain. The descent then takes us down the Forciolline valley to around 2,000 m, over snow-covered slopes and scree where we learn to place our feet carefully.

We then climb back up towards the Vallanta mountain hut, at 2,450 m, in a rocky landscape typical of high mountains. This day serves as an initial practical session: rope management, progress on mixed terrain and the choice of footholds are practised throughout the route, under the guide’s supervision.

On arrival at the Mountain hut, we check our equipment and review the day’s sections over a shared meal, in the convivial atmosphere of a mountain evening, before preparing for the next stage.

We set off from the Vallanta mountain hut to climb to Punta Gastaldi (3,216 m) via the standard route, a bolted rock climb that serves as an introduction to mountaineering. We begin by following the path to Passo Giacoletti, then tackle the equipped sections, where we progress as a rope team under the guide’s supervision.

At the summit, we take the time to admire the massif’s landscape and identify the terrain we have crossed over the last few days. We then descend via the same route, revising the techniques covered and paying particular attention to safety.

We continue our journey to the Quintino Sella mountain hut, situated on the shores of Lago Grande di Viso, at an altitude of around 2,640 m. The approach to the Mountain hut reveals another side to the massif: a series of high-altitude lakes, including Lago Fiorenza and Lago Chiaretto, stretch out beneath the imposing east face of Monte Viso, which towers over the surrounding area by nearly 1,000 metres.

Wake up at dawn and have breakfast at the Mountain hut, then set off with headlamps to climb Monte Viso via the standard route. The route passes through the Passo delle Sagnette, at around 2,990 m, then continues along exposed, secured ledges, rocky sections and chimneys that require concentration and precision.

We join the east ridge before reaching the summit cross at 3,841 m. Up there, the panorama stretches across the Alps, from Gran Paradiso to Mont Blanc and the Valais Alps, whilst the Queyras and the Écrins can be seen to the west.

We then begin the descent via the same route, stopping off at the Alpetto Mountain hut to refuel. There is then one final stretch to the car park, where this alpine adventure – marked by the ascent of the massif’s iconic summit – comes to an end.